Contemporary Fake Silver Dollar Guide

February 15, 2013 by Meridian Coin

As much as I love the daily calls inquiring about how much the 1795,1796, 1804, 1848-CC, the ridiculously large Washington Head dollar (my favorite)  and other wonderful rarities are worth, I have decided it is time to put this stuff out there so many of you can quickly discern whether your coins (that you most likely bought for $25 with a vision of selling for $250,000) are real or counterfeit. There is an enormous amount of counterfeit coins circulating around the Los Angeles area, and truthfully in the world. While I am not going to get into hardcore counterfeiting techniques and the different methods in this article, I am going to show you a few basic characteristics of the coins that I see, and get called about, on a daily basis.

So,here is the breakdown of dates for the most common counterfeits that are out there right now. These coins normally come in a sheet or bags of 10-12 coins and contain the following dates:

1795 Flowing Hair and Draped Silver Dollar, 1796 Flowing Hair and Draped Bust Silver Dollar, 1797 Draped Bust Silver Dollar, 1799 Draped Bust Silver Dollar

1847-CC, 1848-CC Seated Dollar, 1864-CC Seated Dollar

1865 Washington Head Silver Dollar,

1873 Pattern Trade Dollar, 1874-CC Trade Dollar, 1875-CC Trade Dollar,  1885-CC Trade Dollar,

1883-CC Morgan Dollar, 1893-O Morgan Dollar, 1896-O Morgan Dollar and 1898-O Morgan Dollar

1906 Ellis Island Silver Dollar

These are the most common dates that I see in these “packs” of counterfeit dollar coins. If you go to my “Counterfeit Coin Gallery” you can see images of all of these. Now it is time to go through the process of determining why these are fake.

First Step: Does it stick to a magnet?

Magnet on coin

Ahhhhhh….Sh*%

If the coin that is supposed to be a silver dollar sticks to a magnet, guess what, game over. There is nothing left to be said. Don’t think that somehow there is a reason it could still be real. Give up, drink a beer and don’t buy the same counterfeit coin twice. Please keep in mind that this advise only applies to coins that are parading to be a silver dollar, there are of course other coins that are rare that do not stick to a magnet. But…..silver coins do not stick to magnets!

 

 

Seconhttp://meridiancoin.com/wp-admin/post.php?post=1315&action=editd Step: Was the coin even actually made by the U.S. Mint?

So, if your supposed silver dollar does not stick to a magnet, you have won big time……uhhh, no. Now it is time to get numismatic. A coin cannot exist if it was never made and we need to understand some basic things, with regards to our study sample here, in order to determine if any of the coins are counterfeit for the sole reason that the issue was never produced by the U.S. Mint. With the coins that I see most frequently, the counterfeits have made only three to four issues that just plain are impossible to be real. They are as follows:

A) 1847-CC, 1848-CC and 1864-CC Seated Dollars: Here is the deal on these coins. The “CC” that is stamped at 6:00 on the reverse just above the rim is called a mintmark and it is meant to denote from which Mint location a coin was struck. “CC” stands for Carson City and here is where the problem begins with these particular coins. The Carson City Mint did not open its doors until 1870. Therefore it is impossible that any Seated Dollar, or any coin for that matter, could  have a “CC” mintmark on it unless it is dated 1870 or later. The photo here shows a 1864-CC that is fake whether it sticks to a magnet or not because the 1864-CC could not possible have been made due to the aforementioned facts.

A Fake 1864-CC Silver Dollar

A Fake 1864-CC Silver Dollar

A Fake 1864-CC Silver Dollar

A Fake 1864-CC Silver Dollar

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

B) The Large Washington Head silver dollar: This counterfeit, more than any other, makes me laugh every time I see it. I mean, come on, it does not even look like it could be real. The fact is that human perception is better than we think and I would bet most people know deep down inside that this coin is fake when they see it. There are so  many things that are wrong with counterfeit that just look at the picture and take my word for it. It is NO good.

Fake Washington Head Dollar

Give me a break…this is so fake.

 

C) The 1906 Ellis Island Silver Dollar: At least this counterfeit is only 80 years off from when it was actually made. The 1906 Ellis Island silver dollar is 100% fake because the real coin was not struck until 1986 by the U.S. Mint as a silver commemorative dollar. Therefore, once again, it cannot be real because it was never made. Furthermore, the current 1906 Ellis Island counterfeit displays pretty much ever striking characteristic of a fake, mushy surfaces, soft lettering, raised bumps all over the fields and so forth. These are things we will touch on later, but for now, just know that this coin is no good, just like the 1865 Washington Head travesty.

1906 Ellis Island Fake

 

Third Step: Does the coin weigh the wrong amount?

I cannot expect someone who has not been associated with coins for any amount of time to understand the natural heft of weight that a real silver, gold, platinum or palladium coin has. I can tell you that once you have felt it, it is a key characteristic to quickly rule a coin a counterfeit. With regards to United States silver dollars, real coins weigh between 26.73 grams to 27.22 grams in total weight and are basically struck in .900 fine silver. The average weight of these counterfeits is around 17 grams which is a huge difference from the real thing and instantly recognizable once it is understood. At this point, we have three really good techniques for quickly sizing up a coin when one first views it. Magnet test, numismatic existence and weight are things that can be done quickly. Technology has made the numismatic existence portion quick, you no longer have to go to some coin shop and ask a guy who looks like Yoda for his reference books. For instance, if you want to know if a particular coin exists, you can quickly go to www.coinfacts.com or even quickly call me. This leads us to the Fourth Step, the step which I think is the most intriguing and brings out the “want-to-be” coin nerd or detective in each of us. The fourth step is striking details on coins.

Fourth Step: Is the Coin Mushy, Irregular, Bumpy, etc…

The small, and sometimes tiny, details that can be observed on a coin can often times tell the whole story with regards to be original or counterfeit. The strike of the coin, the reeding, the edge, raised bumps in the fields, depressions, irregular lettering and other details are what we are going to want to look for on any suspicious coin. With the current counterfeits that this article is dealing with, the primary attributes that are immediately noticeable by the trained eye are: mushiness or softness of strike, irregular reedmarks and denticles, irregular lettering and raised bumps on lettering and in the fields. The following photographs are meant to show the differences between these attributes on a counterfeit example and a authentic example. In some cases, just a photo of the counterfeit is offered with an explanation of what you are looking at.

 

Counterfeit Morgan Silver Dollar(1893-O)

Counterfeit Morgan Silver Dollar(1893-O)

In the photos to the left and right, you can clearly see the difference between three key attributes of the counterfeits that this article pertains to versus a genuine coin. In this particular example, I have chosen the 1893-O Counterfeit Silver dollar that we see weekly versus and original 1904-o Morgan Silver Dollar. The first thing we will touch on is strike. The strike of a coin is composed when the dies that the U.S. mint uses compress together on a planchet (a planchet is basically the coin blank). Obviously, the actual U.S. Mint dies impart an enormous amount of pressure. Counterfeiters are using much less sophisticated machinery and therefore it shows. = If we look at the hair above the date, just along the neckline, on the 1893-O, we can clearly see it is soft and mushy and not in high relief. If we look at the 1904-O, the genuine coin, we can clearly see the detail of the hair in the same place. The difference is huge!

Genuine Morgan Dollar

Genuine Morgan Silver Dollar

The second attribute we can see in the comparison of these two images is the definition of the numbers in the date. The “1893” of the counterfeit example has digits that look almost hand cut with different sizes to the numbers. There is also not much relief between the highest point of the numeral and the metal below. When we look at the 1904-O, the letters look like they were stamped hard and the uniformity among digits is very obvious. Lastly, if we look at the rim just below the date on the 1893-O counterfeit, the denticles and the actual edge of the rim are mushed together. The denticles are the little squares coming off the rim, not a dental tool used to scrape plaque off your teeth. On the 1904-O, the denticles are much more defined, full-bodied and the rim is separated by a clear line as if it where just a few millimeters higher.

 

 

Counterfeit Edge Reeding

Counterfeit Edge Reeding

Genuine Edge Reeding

Genuine Edge Reeding

 

In the two images above we see one of the classic ways to instantly rule a coin as a fake. On the top, the edge reeding of the counterfeit is incomplete when looked at in the vertical sense. When I look at the counterfeit edge reeding, I envision some poor guy sitting in a stinky basement use a chisel to hammer the reeding into the coin while his criminal leader yells “Faster,faster”. When I look at the genuine reeding, on the bottom, it just looks like it was machine made. Each reed is equal proportionately and the depth and vertical reach are the same.

In the images below, look at the difference between real coins and fake coins. Just the overall sharpness is apparent. Again, we are trying to create a mental library of what good coins and bad coins look like. With that said, in today’s world we still always have to be very careful, especially dealers and traders.

Counterfeit Ellis Island Silver Dollar

Everything is wrong with this coin. The entire coin is mushy and off-color. The surfaces are very granular.

1986 Ellis Island Genuine

This is a 100% genuine coin. Superbly struck. Everything in the same relief. Contrast between the devices and fields.

Weakness of strike is plainly seen here. Denticles look too variable and the rim is suspect. Lettering is off and grainy.

Genuine Morgan Dollar

Here the detail is sharp. Everything is in the same relief and letter and devices are in sharp contrast to the the planchet.

 

At this point, I have tried to cover the most basic aspects that will hopefully help the individual collector or treasure seeker to protect themselves against fake coins. Remember, it doesn’t matter if it is only $25, if it is fake, it is your hard earned money that you are wasting. The good thing is that crude fakes are as easy as hell to spot once you have seen a few. Additionally, the chances of you really buying a bag of coins worth $250,000 at a gas station or flea market is basically zero…sorry. Coins are rare for a reason and if you can have a late evening conversation with your buddy about the 1799 silver dollars you both have been coincidentally buying….something is very, very wrong.

Until next time…..carry a magnet.


17 responses to “Contemporary Fake Silver Dollar Guide”

  1. Compton Vester says:

    Hello,

    Is the movement characteristic of a small thin sliding magnet test on a tilted standing silver dollar on it’s edge foolproof?

  2. chuck says:

    I am also looking at selling the following Silver Dollars, can you give me a rough estimate of the total value of these; 1873cc, this coin the letter “E” appears looks like a mistrike? 1878cc broken star, not graded(pic), 1878s AU50,1979s MS63, 1879s MS63, 1880s not graded,1880-o AU58 cleaned, 1880sMS64, 1884-o ungraded, 1884ccMS63 and 1884cc uncirculated, 1884s EF40, rim bump, 1885 MS 67and 1885 MS61,1887 MS64,
    1892-s EF45 and 1892cc not graded. I will email photos. Thank You

  3. Charles says:

    Where is the best place to buy real Morgan silver dollars

  4. Dave Hearrell says:

    Just (won) bought (4) 1896 Morgan Dollars off Topphatter 90 second bidding. They came covered in “old grease an grime”, weighed in at 27 grams, ( scales don’t show grains) wondered about the cleaned spots. So cleaned (3) coin in jewery cleaner, the three coins lost 4 grams each. The rim is rounded as per your article. So…I guess the coins are fake. Is there any value in them, they are well made fakes! No ferrous metal in them, sharp letters, clean appearance, . I’m deaf so ring test is out! On good side…Only seven dollars bid (shipping included) “won” them. I guess I can call them ART….Ha!

  5. David O Montoya says:

    The house for fake silver dollar guide was very educational I enjoyed all the information .I have a 1796 liberty half dollar and I’m hoping it is real it does not stick to a magnet and it weighs 24.75 is it real

  6. Mark Robertson says:

    Great commentary! Excellent pointers with very good comparison pictures.

  7. Martin Kurtz says:

    I purchased two (2) 1799 draped bust silver dollars on ebay. They passed the magnet test (and the sliding magnet test) and the diameter test. However, when weighting, one weighed 26.72 grams and the other weighed 26.39 grams. Should I be worried? Marty

  8. I bought a 2003 Lady Liberty silver dollar at an estate sale. I don’t know if it’s real or counterfeit. The magnet doesn’t move it at all. Not sure where to go from here.

  9. Jack Bauer says:

    my 1795 flowing hair leaves me confused the coin has a embossed look , weighs around 20.17 grams? the coin was filthy , when i first obtained it, so since im an amature coin collector , i cleaned the coin with a coin cleaner liquid, twice. it has a very slight edge around the coin, reeded edge .. and many scratches on both sides of my coin , probally 20 or so scratches? the back of the coin has the smaller eagle,

  10. Rich says:

    What metal are the fakes mostly made out of? No fake that I have,I bought them strictly to collect,ever stuck to a magnet.

  11. Rich says:

    What metal are the fakes mostly made out of? No fake that I have,I bought them strictly to collect,ever stuck to a magnet. And what would a circulated 1884 Morgan dollar weigh? Mine weigh 26.66 rather than 26.73. Could they be real at that weight?

  12. Titus says:

    I have a 1795 draped bust centered that weighs 22.7 grams is there any way it can be real? Please help

  13. Thelma Sudick says:

    I recently came into possession of two coins. As they were sold to my grandson for almost nothing, I thought “fake”!
    Then after reading what you said about fake coins, I KNEW it could not be real. However after going over and over with all the points and signs of not being real were, I have only this to say-
    Either these crooks are getting very very good at making fakes now. Or my son bought two old coins for very little money from someone who didn’t care what he sold them for. That he needed cash and fast! I would like to know what should I really do? Take thm to the police due to the measure of details so.eone has done? I’m seriously wanting to know.
    Thank you. TLS

  14. Dieter Gentry says:

    I have about 15 with different dates I’ll check them what’s the date when they are real and spendable? But there are real ones mine came from China I also got a few A. Hitler 1935 coins says like 5 marks are they real or comrettive ? TY
    Dieter

  15. Leonard Ochs says:

    I am also, now, the proud owner of an 1846 seated liberty dollar with the ‘In God We Trust’ banner on the reverse side and the ‘cc’ mint mark. By the way, the magnet on my refrigerator literally flew to the bag holding it. I cost me nothing, a gift from my sister-in-law, who paid a dollar for it, from the cash register from the department store where she works.

  16. Allen Melius says:

    Thank you for your advise and explanation of the differences

  17. patrick elwood says:

    Extremely helpful. Thank you very much. I enjoyed reading the breakdown.

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